Greece
Sea light, whitewashed stone, and the pleasures of a longer table.
The Region
Beyond the postcard islands there is a Greece of quiet coves, family tavernas, and villages where nothing much has changed in a century. I favor the shoulder seasons and the smaller islands — Milos, Folegandros, Paros — with a few nights in Athens to begin.
Where to be
Neighborhoods
Plaka & Anafiotika, Athens
The old city under the Acropolis, best at dusk.
Chora, Folegandros
A cliff-top village that empties by ten each evening.
Pyrgos, Santorini
The quiet interior of an island most only see from the caldera.
Where to stay
Favorite Hotels
- Amanzoe, Peloponnese
- Perivolas, Santorini
- The Rooster, Antiparos
- One&Only Aesthesis, Athens
What to do
Favorite Experiences
- A private sail through the Small Cyclades
- A dawn visit to the Acropolis before opening
- An afternoon of cheese-making in the Peloponnese
A short list
Where to Eat
- Selene, Santorini
- Nolan, Athens
- Barbarossa, Folegandros
Season
Best Time to Visit
Mid-May, June, and September through mid-October.
Notes from the studio
Travel Tips
- — Skip Mykonos in August. Consider Paros instead.
- — Ferries run late; plan the day around them, not against them.
- — Rent a car on any island larger than Folegandros.