France
Paris in the morning, a village in Provence by nightfall.
The Region
France is a country of two speeds — the pace of Paris and the pace of everywhere else. My favorite itineraries combine a few days in the city with a slower week in the countryside: the Luberon in spring, Burgundy at harvest, the Basque coast at the end of summer.
Where to be
Neighborhoods
Saint-Germain, Paris
Bookshops, cafés, and the enduring heart of the Left Bank.
Le Marais, Paris
Galleries and small hotels tucked into 17th-century courtyards.
Gordes, Provence
A hilltop village of ochre stone above the Luberon valley.
Where to stay
Favorite Hotels
- Hôtel de Crillon, Paris
- La Bastide de Gordes
- Château Voltaire, Paris
- Villa La Coste, Provence
What to do
Favorite Experiences
- A private morning in the Louvre before opening
- A truffle hunt in the Vaucluse
- A tasting through the grand crus of Burgundy
A short list
Where to Eat
- Clown Bar, Paris
- La Poule au Pot, Paris
- La Coquillade, Provence
Season
Best Time to Visit
Late May through June, and September.
Notes from the studio
Travel Tips
- — Sunday remains sacred. Plan around it.
- — TGV over regional flights, always.
- — Reserve dinner two weeks out, even in the countryside.